AC adapter repair
By ad ad on 05 August 2009
 Although the cost of a new adapter is usually modest, repair is often so easy that it makes sense in any case. The most common problem (and the only one we will deal with here) is the case of a broken wire internal to the cable at either the wall wart or device end due to excessive flexing of the cable. Usually, the point of the break is just at the end of the rubber cable guard. If you flex the cable, you will probably see that it bends more easily here than elsewhere due to the broken inner conductor.

  If you are reasonably dextrous, you can cut the cable at this point, strip the wires back far enough to get to the good copper, and solder the ends together. Insulate completely with several layers of electrical tape. Make sure you do not interchange the two wires for DC output adapters! (They are usually marked somehow either with a stripe on the insulator, a thread inside with one of the conductors, or copper and silver colored conductors. Before you cut, make a note of the proper hookup just to be sure. Verify polarity after the repair with a voltmeter. The same procedure can be followed if the break is at the device plug end but you may be able to buy a replacement plug which has solder or screw terminals rather than attempting to salvage the old one. Once the repair is complete, test for correct voltage and polarity before connecting the powered equipment. This repair may not be pretty, but it will work fine, is safe, and will last a long time if done carefully. If the adapter can be opened - it is assembled with screws rather than being glued together - then you can run the good part of the cable inside and solder directly to the internal terminals. Again, verify the polarity before you plug in your expensive equipment. Warning: If this is a switching power supply type of adapter, there are dangerous voltages present inside in addition to the actual line connections.

  Do not touch any parts of the internal circuitry when plugged in and make sure the large filter capacitor is discharged (test with a voltmeter) before touching or doing any work on the circuit board. For more info on switching power supply repair, refer to the document: "Notes on the Troubleshooting and Repair of Small Switchmode Power Supplies". If it is a normal adapter, then the only danger when open are direct connections to the AC plug. Stay clear when it is plugged in.

Dell LCD R0423 AC Adapter(Dell LCD R0423 AC Adapter )
Apple A1021 AC Adapter(A1021 AC Adapter )
Compaq 338136-001 AC Adapter(DC18.5V 3.5A )
Dell XD802 AC Adapter(DC19.5V 3.34A )
HP Pavilion DV6700 AC Adapter(AC100-240V)
Acer Aspire 5570-2947 AC Adapter(AC100-240V 50-60Hz)
Gateway PA-1650-01 AC Adapter(AC100-240V )
IBM Lenovo ThinkPad R60 AC Adapter(AC100-240V )
Compaq 402018-001 AC Adapter(DC18.5V 3.5A )
Gateway API3AD03 AC Adapter(DC19V 3.42A )
HP 324816-002 AC Adapter(AC100-240V )
HP 384019-002 AC Adapter(AC100-240V)
Dell PA-12 AC Adapter(AC100-240V)
Dell Latitude D620 AC Adapter(AC100-240V)
Toshiba PA3467U-1ACA AC Adapter(AC100-240V )
Dell AD-4214N LCD AC Adapter(AC100-240V)
Dell NADP-90KB AC Adapter(DC19.5V 4.62A )
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Dell PA-1900-05D AC Adapter(AC100-240V )
Dell PA-9 AC Adapter(DC20V 4.5A)
Dell Inspiron 1200 AC Adapter(DC19V 3.16A )
Dell Latitude 120L AC Adapter(AC100-240V)
Dell LCD PA-9 AC Adapter(AC100-240V)
Dell CF719 AC Adapter(AC100-240V)
Dell TD230 AC Adapter(DC19V 3.16A )
Dell Inspiron B120 AC Adapter((worldwide use) )
Dell 310-6499 AC Adapter(AC100-240V)
Toshiba K000040330 Adapter(100-240V, 50-60Hz )
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Toshiba PA3290U-2ACA AC Adapter(AC100-240V)
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